Scaling Alaska’s Pioneer Peak
Posted on Tuesday, November 24th, 2009
(Over the first couple of knolls; Knik River in the background.)
Pioneer Peak is rather typical of the easily accessible mountains in south-central Alaska. Although its summit is only 6,398 feet, those unfamiliar with the front-range Chugach – and used to bagging fourteeners – may not realize what Pioneer has in store for those who hike or climb it: All routes up the mountain begin at around 200 feet.
While the north summit is a popular winter attempt when snow and ice conditions are good, we opted for the non-technical ridge route up to the south summit this fall. The ridge route starts on the back side of the peak, traveling 4.5 miles over 5,100 feet to Pioneer Ridge. From there, another 1,100 feet and 1.5 miles takes you to the south summit, which lies a few feet short of the 6,398-foot north summit.
(Beginning the hike up the back side of the peak.)
We began the hike in typical fall conditions: gray skies, the threat of rain, and muddy trails. The trail climbs over several knolls, and as we passed each one, the weather kept getting worse. We began hiking in soft shell pants and trail runners, but the hard shells and hats came out around 3,000 feet. The wind picked up and a light snow started falling, with the clouds obscuring any view of the Chugach behind Pioneer or the Talkneeta Mountains across from it.
The snow continued to accumulate, and a stop for a snack at around 4,200 feet led to the swinging of arms more commonly seen at the base of ice climbs than a day hike in the Mat-Su Valley in late September. We gained the ridge in near whiteout conditions, our trail runners ruining any hope of continuing on to the south summit.
(Shadow of Pioneer Peak over the Mat-Su Valley from an attempt up the North Face.)
We reluctantly turned around, our footprints in the snow already blown away by the wind that continued to howl until we dropped back down to around 3,000 feet. There, another challenge confronted us – the slickest, muddiest trails either of us had encountered in a long time.
The trip down took nearly as long as the trip up, with both of us and the dog having several near misses and me taking one good slide down the mud-covered trail. We emerged at the trailhead covered in mud, soaking wet, and sharing the same prerequisite for any future attempt at the hike – bluebird conditions.
(On the ridge, heading toward the south summit prior to turning around.)
Renee McFarland is an Inspired Mountain Ambassador who lives outside Anchorage, Alaska. A public defender by day, she spends her days off climbing, hiking and thinking about learning to ski.
Hi,
Climbed up to the North Peak of Pioneer Peak in August of 1957.
Had a fall on the way down which resulted in a smashed knee cap, cuts and broken teeth.
It’s great to see the mountain getting climbed on a regular basis.
Best of Luck,
Hap Wurlitzer
Hap! You climbed it the year I was born. I climbed it the first time (the ridge trail) in 95 or 6 and my son took a 1200 ft tumble and had to be medivaked off by national guard blackhawk. Would like to hear about your epic.
Chet Showalter
chet3ccs@gmail.com